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THE ANCIENT PILGRIM PATH
known as the Way of St. James meanders up through the incomparable beauty
of the landscape temple of northern Portugal. It follows 'the road less
traveled' part,
which is along the original Roman roads Via XVI from Lisbon to Porto
and the Via XIX from Porto to Valença. For over a thousand years
pilgrims have taken 'time out' to walk its solid surface to reflect
on life and its deeper purpose. It is beginning to awaken from centuries
of slumber to offer us, again, a time to pause and to re-orientate ourselves
in this time of unprecedented change. It provides an antidote to burnout
and a vision of a brighter, more sustainable future.
Every one of us is affected by the current global turmoil that threatens
our social, economic, climatic and ecological systems. However, the
current chaos offers a wonderful opportunity to reappraise our lives.
It is futile to try and maintain a bubble that has become so inflated
that its very fabric is stretched so thin that it can no longer survive
in its present form. We can bury our heads in the sand and deny that
exponential growth can continue forever - but if left unchecked
it must inevitably collapse under its own weight. We have reached that
point and the problem of our collective, unsustainable way of life can
no longer be left for the next generation to solve. We are living beyond
the capacity of the earth to sustain us and we need to act now in a
concerted global re-envisioning.
In a sense, Portugal was the birthplace of Globalism. The Portuguese
'discoveries' of the 15th and 16th centuries extended the known world
to encompass the entire planet for the first time. The Portuguese explorers
like Vasco de Gama and Magellan gave rise to international trade and
the unbridled expansion that has now, finally, come to an end. But this
is also a time of unprecedented opportunity. The solutions to all our
problems are available to us, now. The global energy 'crisis' is one
of the many illusory tricks that are being played out by the big energy
companies
who control so much of the global economy. Enough solar energy hits
the earth each day sufficient to fuel the entire global energy needs
for one year! All we need do is to wake up and change the way
we think so that we can start to breakdown the monopolies of the energy
giants and harness this unlimited sustainable source of power.
With our noses pressed ever more firmly to a grindstone that is spinning
ever faster how can we make the necessary changes. Einstein famously
remarked, "We cannot solve a problem with the same mindset that gave
rise to it." When all is said and done we need a more evolved consciousness.
Barack Obama's democratic platform was built on the slogan "we need
change." This is where the Camino Portugués comes in so beautifully.
Most of us are familiar with the busy-ness of life that seems to trap
us in its complexities so that we never have 'time' to reflect on our
lives and its direction. To bring about the required change in mindset
we need to take time out from all the activity, away from the familiar
and allow some spaciousness into our lives. What better place to achieve
this than to walk the Way of St. James otherwise known as the Camino
Portugués. All you need is a 'pilgrim passport' (or credential),
a light backpack and pair of walking shoes. But don't delay - the future
of the world may depend on it!
The
pilgrim infrastructure has improved greatly during the past few years
and hostels are now available all along the route from Porto. If you
don't fancy sleeping in a pilgrim dormitory you can always stay in one
of the magnificent quintas that line the route. These quintas, along
with other alternative accommodation are all listed in A Pilgrims
Guide to the Camino Portugués, which also has maps detailing
the distances between hostels, quintas, bars and cafés. The Camino
has become the second most popular route to Santiago but it is still
relatively uncluttered despite the fact that pilgrims from a staggering
156 different nationalities walked the route last year.
The most popular starting point is Porto but the route is now well marked
all the way from Lisbon. The first 3 days of which are shared with the
route to Fatima along the Camino do Tejo but the historic route then
branches off at Santarém to the delightful town of Tomar, which
has been associated with the pilgrim route to Santiago since the 10th
century. The knights Templar occupied the town as their Portuguese headquarters
to look after the welfare and safety of wayfarers. Prince Henry 'the
Navigator' was a Grand Master and the great explorers such as Columbus
were almost certainly entertained in its illustrious court, which is
now protected as a World Heritage site. From here the route winds its
way through the best preserved Roman ruins in Portugal at Conimbriga
before entering the ancient capital of Coimbra. Porto is the next stop,
which we reach 2 weeks from setting out from Lisbon. Another week will
bring us to Valença on the river Minho before we enter Spain
for the final few days to Santiago.
The
route is very eclectic and is open and waiting for every one of every
religion (or none) to walk its pathways as a way of reawakening to a
future quite unlike the past. You can choose to go on this route today
- now. Who, me? - Yes! And it may prove to be the pivotal turning
point in your life when you experience the long last art of spacious
living - uncluttered from all the paraphernalia of our chaotic way of
life. What are you waiting for?
©
John Brierley, 2009
Author of A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Portugués
published by Findhorn Press.
Click
on the cover image below to order
A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino Portugués.
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