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I WAS SURROUNDED
by more animals than I have ever seen before. Just fifty minutes by
plane from Nairobi and we (4 South Africans, The tall Masai people, to whom the Reserve belongs, don't eat wild animals - they only eat their own cattle and fowl. Consequently the animals are relaxed and totally at ease. In our mobile camp next to a river, we were lucky to have a superb team of eight Masai to look after our group. They made us delicious meals, brought us hot water for showering and generally looked after all of our needs. The kitchen was one tent with two fires in the front of it and a flat pan-like zinc plate was used as an "oven." Despite the primitive conveniences, the Masai conjured up deliciously juicy steaks, stuffed turkey, pizzas, cottage pie, fresh vegetables, French fries and delicious fresh white bread - all baked on the fire oven. In the evening we would sit around a big fire, eating nuts or chips or dried fruits accompanied by cold Kenyan beer or French wine - we felt totally spoilt. Every night we dined under the African starlit sky in an open-ended tent sitting around a fully laid table, covered with white linen and serviettes - in the style of Ernest Hemingway and other famous African explorers.
Every year four million white-bearded wildebeest and one and a half
million zebras migrate in a huge circle from the south of Tanzania into
the Masai Mara Reserve in the north. The crossing of the Mara River
by masses of wildebeest and zebra
Watching and waiting for a possible crossing, was also a lesson in real
patience. The gnus (as our two guides called the white-bearded wildebeest)
seem to have no plan; the whole affair is pretty much Wu Wei.
We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and were lucky to see our first crossing
on the Monday. A possible crossing is signalled by a huge build up of
wildebeest close to the banks of the Mara River. This situation presented
itself at about eleven on the Monday morning. Eight vehicles, all loaded
with cameras, were all neatly lined up on a slight hill. The passengers
were hardly visible behind their big lenses and other fancy state-of-the-art
equipment. We were about 350 metres from the river; watching from aloft
the open roofs of the Land Rovers. Here we sat for more than an hour,
waiting on the periphery so as not to disturb the milling wildebeest.
Just as I decided to chill and enjoy the stillness and grand vista and
took a first sip of the deliciously cold Kenyan beer and a bite of the
waffle that the Masai cooking team has packed in our picnic basket,
there was a sudden commotion. One wildebeest, by instinct, has taken
the first plunge into the river. All eight vehicles raced down the hill
to the river at full speed to find a good viewing point. We were a bit
far from this first crossing due to the trees on the bank of the river,
so could not really get good photos. However, that afternoon more to
the west, we spotted another build up of about a thousand wildebeest.
We were the only two vehicles around and, as we were parked right next
to the rather steep river bank; we could not see the wildebeest entering
but we had a perfectly clear view of the opposite bank where they had
to exit.
The harmony and peace that emanated from the plains was contagious,
with the natural cycle of life and death as it had to be. While the
wildebeest and zebras cross the river to look for greener pastures to
graze on, Zen teachers talk about the crossing of Samsara to Nirvana;
to be ferried over from ignorance into bliss. The masters say there
must be no concepts in our thinking, we should relinquish all likes
and dislikes, all duality. The Buddhist way is that of no mind, the
mind must settle down and be like stone - no pondering on all the "juice"
we get emotionally out of our thoughts (a term coined by Dr David Hawkins,
well known spiritual guru who teaches the way to Enlightenment in the
West). The Buddhist way is also non theistic - just the concept of a
Creator already creates dualism - the difference between creator and
the created. I felt no urge to do my normal meditation practice in the
African bush. The simple existence of the myriads of animals, the total
magnificence of Creation and the endless plains filled my heart with
complete contentment - all I wanted to do was to worship and sing praise
to the maker of such beauty. I took a small copy of the Bhagavad-Gita
with me on this trip (2003 edition). The disturbing sight of three hyena's devouring a young wildebeest in the hour before sunrise (they often don't even kill their prey before they start eating) combined with the happy frolicking of a young Thomson gazelle racing around in big circles and jumping for joy (and tiring out his mother) was all part of the great cycle of life in the Bush. We were even lucky to see two lions that were mating. The African Bush showed me that everything there was in harmony and that nature has been providing us with life, breath and food for millions of years. In the bush there is nothing to get, nothing to attain, only to be! We are normally so brainwashed that all our running about and efforts go into getting something. Zen says there is nothing to attain - we must only comprehend the truth that there is nothing to get, then we will experience nirvana. Surely most of us will be a whole lot happier if we were not running after all the things we have to get or have to own.
The wildebeest showed me the way of Wu Wei: greeting each moment as
it arises with spontaneity, without any calculated pre-planned action
mode. © Dr. Sibis Mouton, 2009 REFERENCES |
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
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